I have been making collages all day, which has extended my inspiration for new looks in my next collection. I have started draping and creating, so we might have some behind the scenes photos soon, courtesy of my sister.
Enough about my plans in design (but do look out for future posts, and remember I'm still selling scarves!), and let's focus our attention on the Miu Miu and Louis Vuitton shows. There has been a repeated use of 70's looks throughout New York, Milan, and Paris Fashion Weeks as I have stated repeatedly throughout my fashion week reviews, but Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada strayed away from the common decade, and took us back 30 years before to the world war driven era of the 40's. In my fashion history term paper, where I explained the influence of the economy on fashion through the 20's-40's, I noted the shoulder padded suits that imitated army attire. These designers did just that. That is, use shoulder pads, suits, and high collared dresses. (All photos from style.com)
During World War II, fabric was highly rationed, and many designers were limited in their fabric choices. Here is where the 40's inspired collections drift away from the actual decade. There are so many fabrics available today that are not rationed and designers have access to more and more types of fabrics and colors. The neo-forty Vuitton collection had large squared sequins and brown leather army caps with the Louis Vuitton logo. The collection also featured high round collared dresses Jacobs used a red-burgundy, navy, white, black, gray, and royal blue for the majority of pieces. The iron gates with men in uniforms and hats extended the forties war imagery.
Similarly, Miu Miu also ignored the 70's memo. In lieu of designing with dropped hemlines, Miuccia created knee length and even shorter silhouettes with emphasis on the shoulders. The shoulder pads were not too crazy in this collection and the auburn and black pieces captured the essence of the forties. Collars were also another emphasized aspect of the collection.
Perhaps Marc Jacobs and Miuccia Prada were in communication, or perhaps they both wanted to drift away from the 70's. Nonetheless, both the 70's and the 40's were filled with fighting overseas, although the war had a greater impact on the world as a whole in the 40's where as the Vietnam war in the 70's affected much fewer countries. It was nice to see a bit of a decade change after seeing so many 70's inspired outfits. It was a good break, and a great way to wrap up Fashion Week.
I recently redesigned a dress that I found at Glassell that was probably from the 40's or 50's because it had a worker's union label on it. I shortened the hemline and added sleeves, and the Louis Vuitton and Miu Miu show reminded me of it! I wore it with black textured tights and wedges. Also my friend's tie dye maxi dress is a spring must have.
xox,
RoJo
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