Proenza Schouler Fall RTW 2011

Although a bit overdue, the Proenza Schouler show deserved justice, hence this delayed post:
(all pictures from Style.com, as usual!)

Proenza Schouler fall ready-to-wear featured a Cosby-Native element to the collection; a combination of multi-colored Bill Cosby sweaters with Native American inspired patterns. The fall collection referenced zig-zags from the top of tee pees and bold tribal colors, but was executed without being overly reminiscent of Native American typical fashions. Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCullough’s color varied fall collection contained a balance between mustard yellows, corals, royal and dark blues, grays, tans, browns, and blacks. Each piece contributed new digitally designed geometric patterns and they illuminated because of the simplicity of the designs. Mid-length skirts and 20’s jodphur pants were refined into sleek garments with a staggered edge.

I was immediately reminded of Cliff Huxtable from the Cosby Show as models in long-sleeved colorful woven sweaters strutted down the concrete runway. In particular the 164h look highlighted a high neckline woven sweater, with triangular patterns in grays, Yale blue, black, and burgundy. The sweater was paired with pants that hit above the ankle--their pattern a patriotic rendering of a Native American traditional blanket. Although the two pieces had overlapping colors, their patterns were completely different yet the look was an updated version of Cliff Huxtable. Several other pieces had an evident Cosby-Native feel to them, including the 14th look--a tan blended burgundy and gray vest styled with a mid-length skirt with another pattern. Again two completely different patterns were put side by side, without looking tacky. There have been times when people combine two separate patterns and create chaos, but Proenza Schouler was successfully able to combine different patterns to create one unified look for the fall. Hernandez and McCullough’s uniquely patterned Cliff Huxtable sweaters are a fall must-have and stores like Urban Outfitters will probably feature knock-offs in the fall season to come.

                       
Two models in crocheted skirts darted down the runway, further evoking tribal imagery. The interesting weaving fashioned into turquoise and bright yellow mid length skirts with button down collared shirts and large necklaces created an elegant reference to a modern tribal woman. The fringed bottom swayed from side to side as the models weaved through the U-shaped runway. The last pieces, which generally feature long evening gowns, were simple velvet turquoise and mustard boxy dresses. They were unusually color blocked, with zig-zags as a barrier between two different colors. These two pieces in particular looked like part of a tee pee but instead of using leather, the design duo at Proenza Schouler made them in velvet. Dresses and pants had zig-zags on them, and shoes were no exception. The shoes in the show were crossed along the back of the ankle. Models also wore beaded heels as they strutted down the runway. 
 
All pieces in the collection either had distinctive patterns or pattern combinations. There were few pieces that were color blocked with two interlocking colors meeting at a jagged edge. However two pieces in the whole collection were bland and made without a unique pattern. It seems strange to add only a select few pattern less pieces. Perhaps the designers were rushed and needed a few more pieces in their collection and ran out of patterned fabric. The collection would have been complete without these two plain pants and collarless coat combination since as a whole it focuses on Native American inspired patterns.

This was by far one of my favorite runway shows from New York fashion week, not only because of the elaborate patterns and Cosby-Native element to the whole collection, but because of the production that went into the show. The show was in a warehouse-esque venue and a runway was not built, rather chairs were arranged around a U-shaped path, creating a natural runway. In addition to the venue, light fixtures that resembled the jagged patterns from the fabric were placed in between chairs. As models first began to walk down the runway, the warehouse was filled with darkness, but the zig-zagged lights turned on as soon the first model began to walk towards the front rows of people. The light was a luminescent almost light blue and was not a true toned light. The music was a slow trance, and fit the collection well. Anything with voices would have contradicted the Native American and Bill Cosby feel to the collection.

Hair was not braided, which was a good choice on behalf of the designers. Braids would have taken the imagery too far. Instead every model had a messy low pony and many had extensions, creating a sleek yet purposely frizzy edge. The makeup was not too crazy, as many runway shows tend to go wild with the make up ie the latest Mugler show. Eyebrows were darkened and it was not mascara heavy.

Overall the collection was an abstraction of Native American prints, but Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough added odd color combinations and digital techniques to the patterns, ultimately forming a fall Cosby-Native collection to die for!


**For the most amazing behind-the-scenes pictures of the Proenza Schouler show, check out the Jak & Jill Blog. Just viewing the photos made me feel like I was there. Their clarity illuminates the collection's colors. (the following pictures from Jak & Jill blog)
xox,

RoJo